Jun 22, 2017 | By Alice Gividen
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CHANGING OF THE GUARD
Milan: With gilded insignia, sashes, medals, and equestrian helmets on display, British formal military dress seemed to be the theme behind Rosella Jardini’s latest Moschino collection. There was also a nod to Scotland with numerous takes on the classic tartan, in addition to a handful of kilts and sporran-inspired bags. The show began with a series of tailored ensembles that included a three-piece pantsuit and a couple of narrow-shouldered, double-breasted coats, whose precise fit recalled that of a military uniform. Jardini loosened things up a bit with feminine peplum dresses, intarsia sweaters, and even some motorcycle jackets. Two looks that featured Native American-inspired suede fringe diverged from the theme, but the designer quickly brought back the military fare. Overall, the military inspirations, though not necessarily new territory, were a good fit for the label, showing off Jardini’s expert tailoring, as well as her cheeky sense of humor. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Peplum / Hourglass / A-line / Long and lean
Color: True red / Forest green / Gold / Black / White / Navy / Bright yellow / Bottle green / Camel / Heather grey / Charcoal
Key Items: Tartan pantsuits / Kilts / Peplum dresses / Double-breasted coats
Materials: Menswear suitings / Fluid silks / Crisp cotton shirtings / Gilded jacquard / Cloqué / Powdery suede / Silk crepe
Print + Pattern: Tartans / Military insignia / Romantic florals / Pinstripes / Wide stripes
Details + Trim: Embroidered gold insignia / Attached medals / Peplums / Double-breasted closures / Contrast lapels / Suede fringe / Funnel necks / Ruffled collars / Buckle closures
Accessories + Footwear: Large gold “M” earrings / Velvet equestrian helmets / Scottish-inspired hats / Aviator sunglasses / Decorated sashes / Sporran-inspired waist bags / Large top-handle bags / Leather clutches / Ribbed socks / Lace-up hiking boots / Gold-embellished ankle boots
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