Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: To put it mildly, the Montcler Gamme Rouge show was a spectacle. The mood was set by smoke and wind machines, strobe lights, and a flock of modern dancers assembling in formations around the models. Giambattista Valli, the label’s current creative director, sent out femme-futuristic looks that crossed girly silhouettes with tech-y materials. Being that Montcler centers around luxury outerwear, it made sense that the collection consisted mostly of coats and jackets, with a few complementary separates thrown in for balance. The dress-coat seemed to be the most important item for S/S 11, as zip-up styles with feminine proportions dominated the assortment. There were many Mod-influenced looks, several with drop-waist dirndl skirts. As he did when designing for his namesake label this season, Valli experimented with piecing, color-blocking and patch pockets. Drawstrings and neon yellow accents added a sporty element, and bright brocades were unexpected. While the print-mixing, bright colors, and flirty silhouettes were fun, practical and/or basic items were noticeably absent from the show. If a new fashion-forward direction was the objective this season, then Valli succeeded. We’ll have to wait and see how the directional designs resonate with customers.
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