Moncler Gamme Bleu

Milan: Thom Browne continued to explore his fascination with aristocratic sports in his S/S Moncler Gamme Bleu collection, this time drawing on fencing and tennis, seen through a science fiction lens. The designer held his show in an actual fencing club, replete with trophies, which gained the proper amount of sci-fi atmosphere via fluorescent lighting rigs. To complete the mood, Browne’s models marched down the runway to the “Imperial March” from Star Wars, while brandishing sabres that matched opaque fencing masks trimmed with the label’s trademark tricolor trim. Some models wore tennis-style headbands, often with more traditional mesh warm-up jackets and pants or shorts; others wore skirts, aprons, or jockey shorts balanced out by crisp fatigue coats in white or black. The fencing theme continued with diamond-quilted codpieces, vests, and asymmetrical plastrons or trousers, as well as jackets and trousers bearing silver foil armor plates, and lightweight suede or mesh slip-ons similar to a fencer’s footwear. Browne also touched on a nautical theme with blazers, trousers, and hooded jackets in blue-on-white marinière stripes, as well as navy trench coats with brass buttons or white contrast piping. —Andrew Luecke

Color: White / Navy Blue / Racing red / Grey / Black / Metallic silver

Key Items: Mesh warm-up jackets and pants / Tennis shorts / Trench coats / Fatigue coats / Quilted vests and puffer coats

Materials: Mesh / Nylon / Cotton / Suede

Print + Pattern: Glen plaid

Details + Trim: Diamond quilting / Moncler Gamme Bleu tricolor stripes / Gold buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Tennis headbands / Suede or mesh slip on sneakers / Striped socks / Bow ties

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