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Miuccia Prada plays rebel girl for S/S 15 at Miu Miu

Paris: For Spring / Summer 2015 Miuccia Prada referenced the 1974 film by John Waters, Female Trouble – which tracks the sordid toils of Dawn Davenport, a waitress, go-go dancer, prostitute and thief – perhaps a surprising theme for a collection that was played out in one of Paris’ noble palais. However hard-hitting the inspiration, the collection was simultaneously coquettish and sophisticated, youthful yet mature. Separates were styled up, but silk jacquard cropped trousers and printed pencil skirts could be reimagined in an entirely more palatable context. There were many standout pieces – cropped ruffle blouses, the omnipresent house coats, mottled leather pencil skirts and flower embellished patent mules – sure to influence forthcoming footwear shapes. This was a collection that felt new, vital and very welcome. –Lizzy Bowring

Silhouette: Mid-Century

Key items: Structured house coats / Ruffle neck blouses / Pencil skirts / Plunge neck ruffle top

Colour: Putty / White / Scarlet / Peach / Tan / Black / Pistachio / Turquoise / Lemon yellow / Baby pink

Print & Pattern: Leopard print / Floral jacquard / Tartan / Leaf motif jacquard / Fur

Materials & knits: Silk / Cashmere / Wool / Tulle / Suede / Tweed / Fil coupe / Leather

Footwear: Patent bow mules / Patent bow boots / Platform mules  / Platform sandals

Accessories: Structured bowling bags / Leopard print belts / Ladylike purses

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