Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Miuccia Prada built Miu Miu’s F/W 11 collection around strong-shouldered 1940s-meets-1980s silhouettes; modernity came through with the use solid hues and clean lines, and a few charming bird and flower motifs (which were vaguely Biba-esque) felt quintessential for the label. Though simple and unfussy, the styling was innovative. Models’ waists and hips were highlighted by mini overskirts, draped mink sashes or oversized bow embellishments. The collars of under-layers were worn on the outside, pulled from beneath clean jewel necklines on outerwear. Elasticized waistbands and hems added sporty touches to ladylike blouses, pencil skirts and trousers, as did the baseball caps that accessorized. While Miu Miu’s youthful spirit wasn’t abandoned, the looks were somewhat grown-up — maybe more-so than older-sister label Prada’s were this season.
Color: True orange / Charcoal / Taupe / Salmon / Flame red / Slate gray / Deep teal / Black / French blue / Cream / Marigold / Beige
Key Items: Mini over-skirt / Asymmetrical drop-waist coat / Drop-waist sheath / Elasticized, tapered trouser / Double-breasted, mini jacket-dress / Pencil skirt / Silk blouse / Dolman-sleeved princess coat / Pullover blouse
Materials: Melton wools / Gabardine / Mink / Silk
Print + Patterns: Hand-drawn bird motif / Wildflower bouquet patterns
Details + Trim: Square yokes / Oversized bow hip embellishments / Puffed sleeves / Drop-waists / Tortoiseshell buttons / Ruching and gathering / Petite shawl collars / Three-quarter sleeves / Elasticized waistbands and hems / Dolman sleeves / Layered, contrasting collars / Padded shoulders / High-low hems / Sequin embellishments / V-necklines / Draped bodices
Accessories + Footwear: Large clasp clutches / Oversized tortoiseshell sunglasses / Baseball hats / Mink circle sashes, styled across hips and as shrugs / Round-toed pumps / Trompe L’oeil layered booties / Heeled sandals
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