Miu Miu closed Fashion Month beautifully – but its styling was just for show

Miu Miu spring/summer 2016

So, it’s all over for another season. Well, at least for around eight weeks when the pre-season shows start. And while the assorted buyers, press, bloggers, celebrities and more might be feeling jaded by the end of it all, they always have Miu Miu so Fashion Month can go out with a bang.

Miu Miu may be smaller than big sister label Prada but it’s growing fast and could catch it up at some point in the next few years. Will this collection help? The fashion press seemed to think so, as does the wider fan community with the collection’s can’t-miss-‘em multicolour boots all over Instagram while the show was still happening.

So what was this collection all about? Well, for a start it wasn’t really about spring and definitely wasn’t about summer. These clothes will hit the stores later this year and will be on the shelves with several chilly months still to run in many markets.

So we got coats and we got boots, knits and lots of layers. In fact, those layers were crucial – the team put this collection together on the runway in their own inimitable style but nobody expects anyone (maybe a few extreme street style stars) to wear it that way. So don’t look for a retro sheer negligée to be a key layering item next season. Even Miuccia Prada post-show seemed to find them amusing.

As Vogue Runway said: “The assemblages on this runway seemed made to be pulled apart, layer by layer, and absorbed into a woman’s wardrobe in whatever manner makes sense to her.”

The critics seemed to be in agreement that the real key items here were those glam rock-influenced boots, the flat ballet slippers with mismatched ankles ties, the ruffle neck blouses, the acrylic hairbands, the 40s-style dresses with blouson shoulders, the graphic knits, the appliqué leather jackets, and the wide shoulder coats in their various checks.

Those coats were called “the silent stars of the show” by the Financial Times but for most critics there were lots of stars. “The clothes made perfect sense,” said WWD, which isn’t a bad note on which to end another Fashion Month.

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