May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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THE LADY UNFINISHED
Paris: The intellectual lady is always a starting point at Miu Miu, a muse more interested in wit and comfort than flashy seduction. Retro silhouettes help drive the point home and for S/S 13 Miuccia Prada returned to skirts following last season’s celebration of the pantsuit. Midi pencil skirts were paired with boxy jackets and smocked capelets as well as cropped a-line bralettes, but these prim items were subverted via unexpectedly casual fabrics and treatments. Dark indigo denim diffused the elegance of matched sets and swing coats, while wrinkled silk kept covered up dresses from looking stuffy. Of course, Prada’s quirky touches went beyond experimentation with fabric—her reserved ensembles were capped off with wide flat sandals encrusted with oversized jewels, splattered fur stoles and brainy cat-eye spectacles. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Lean & relaxed / Boxy
Color: Navy / White / Forest green / Black / Tan / Fawn / Copper / Cherry red / Hot pink / Cobalt
Key Items: Long relaxed swing coats / Pencil skirts / Bralette crop tops / Boxy jackets with gathered shoulders / Smocked cape tops / Patterned fur coats & capes / Skirt suits / Midi sheath dresses / Fur stoles
Materials: Linen / Shantung silk / Chambray / Fur / Washed silk / Patent leather / Denim
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Abstract x-ray florals / Zig-zags / Splatter prints
Details + Trim: Gathering / Smocking / Drawstrings / Cropped sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Shiny pumps / Structured bags / Leather gloves / Portfolio bags with handles / Jeweled cuff bracelets / Jeweled flat sandals / Angular cat-eye spectacles / Pointy spectator pumps / Jeweled brooches & closures / Oversized rhinestone necklaces / Satchel bags
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