May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Fashion editors began trying to decipher Miuccia Prada’s brilliantly confounding Miu Miu collection as soon as the last model left the runway. Was it Hansel and Gretel meets utilitarian chic, or Pippi Longstocking plus sport? The designer herself refused to name a specific inspiration, stating, “I didn’t have time to analyze it. It’s just instinct and what you see.” This infallible instinct apparently lead her to create a diverse yet cohesive offering with a sense of humor and plenty of plays on proportion. Buttons and lapels were extra-large, and shoulders were linebacker-wide. Though exaggerated, the shape of the coats, in combination with the prim printed neckerchiefs and clunky Mary Janes, called to mind members of the suffragette movement. But just when one was getting used to that idea, Prada send out quilted separates that recalled her earlier, sportier work. The show turned on a dime yet again, ending with an ebullient series of striped and polka dotted looks that captured the designer’s particular brand of quirky elegance. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Extra-broad shoulders / Hourglass / Long layers / Rounded / A-line
Color: Black / Navy / Safety orange / Bright yellow / Red / Carnation pink / Muted teal / Aqua
Key Items: Broad-shouldered pea coats / Narrow midi dresses / Quilted separates / Striped and polka-dotted shirtdresses
Materials: Heavy felted wool / Astrakhan / Curly fur / Matte wool crepe / Fluid silks / Fine-gauge yarns / Jacquard / Crisp silks / Plush fur / Wool piqué
Print + Pattern: Polka dots / Stripes
Details + Trim: Fur lapels / Broad shoulders / Dropped shoulder seams / Pleats / Zippers / Grosgrain trim / Extra-large buttons / Turtlenecks
Accessories + Footwear: Printed silk neckerchiefs / Grosgrain D-ring belts / Bowling bags / Large half-circle bags / Satchels / Vintage-inspired frame bags / Striped thigh-high stockings / Chunky Mary Janes / Cap-toe ankle boots / Peep-toe ankle boots
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