Womenswear Editor Laura Yiannakou breaks down WGSN’s Minimal Maximalism trend, sharing 5 key designers that are spearheading the look.
Minimalism is not a new term in fashion. From the Japanese movement in the 1980s, to the 1990s heyday of fashion houses Calvin Klein, Balenciaga and Jil Sander, we have seen many iterations. In the 2000s it was Phoebe Philo, responsible for the transformation of Céline, who introduced a clean-lined signature aesthetic that permeated down to the high-street.
Fast forward to 2016, and it’s the term maximalism which is in the fashion spotlight. This year, fashion website The Cut defined maximalism as a “big, bonafide shift in fashion”, citing Alessandro Michele of Gucci as “the movement’s spiritual leader”.
This maximalist movement, versus the continual permeation of minimalism, sees an interesting new dynamic in womenswear emerge, with two extreme aesthetics proving to be highly influential in equal measures.
From London to Australia to New York, a wave of emerging designers are beginning to tap into this exciting trend. Sharing a mutual affinity for blending daywear with eveningwear and combining eclectic colour mixes, these are the brands spearheading this signature look:
Sandy Liang @sandyliang: New York-based Liang showed for the first time at Made Fashion Week last year. Her aesthetic feels youth-inspired, reworking classic staples with an unravelled feel and incorporating ruffles, ties and oversized proportion.
Rosie Assoulin @rosie_assoulin: Assoulin, also New York-based, debuted her first collection for Resort 2014 and has gone from strength to strength. She describes her design aesthetic as “the line between the romantically fantastical and reliably practical”.
Regina Pyo @reginapyo: combining “graphic inspirations with an elegant, subtle femininity”, Pyo’s brand is based in London and is now stocked in 30 stores globally.
Hellessy @hellessy: This New York based brand design for “women whose lives are organized around a need for pared-down elegance that is versatile and thoughtfully constructed.”
WGSN subscribers can see the full Minimal Maximalism report here