Sep 22, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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Tomas Maier looked towards the Arab world’s pursuit of democracy when thinking about S/S 12 for Bottega Veneta. The result was a subtle integration of various sartorial styles from around the world. There was a strong denim presence throughout the show with clean indigo and leather fabric blocking and simple mandarin collared jacket shells. The stars of the show were the diffused, multi-colored, powdery jeans- a bold, D.I.Y. look rendered on clean tailored raw denim that made for an arresting contrast.
For S/S 12, Frankie Morello gets active; the collection combines the function and high-color of outdoors-wear with classic preppy menswear looks. Button-down collared shirts and fine gauge knits are styled with carabiners and climbing ropes, track pants and backpacks. The denim focused on a clean peg-leg silhouette and a pair of pleat-front, volume board shorts stood out s the key statement item. Washes ranged from well-launderd and faded to raw and glossy but the overall look was clean and refined.
Creative director Rossella Jardini, looked to the 1950s rockabilly generation as inspiration for her S/S 12 collection. Elvis acted as the male muse (with a Moschino sense of humor), complete with quiffs piled high on top of the models’ heads and a focus on tough, anti-androgynous denim. Pants were super super-skinny, and pastel-colored jackets were given a retro Varsity-style twist. The designer dipped into the various era’s of The King throughout the collection; Casual Elvis channeling a purist 50s attitude with selvedge denim and Hot-Rod inspired studded jackets followed Hawaiian Elvis, clad in floral printed shirts, loafers and powdery truckers; Evening Elvis strutted down the catwalk in dapper 50s diner shirts, teamed with bandana ties and monochrome brogues.
Anadian twins Dean and Dan Caten presented a collection for DSquared that was inspired by a fictional American tourist who arrives in Europe for a summer trip, passing through Scandinavia, Mykonos, Florence and London. Wardrobes transformed as he arrived to explore each destination, from Norwegian fjords with electric camouflage parkas, safari shirts and roughed jeans, to letting loose in London, with rock ‘n’ roll and punk references. The clothes covered the DSquared2 basics in a satisfying way, including distressed denim, statement D.I.Y. jeans, short shorts, color-blocked jackets and plenty of leather. It was all about fun, retail-friendly separates entertainingly dressed up with high-camp theatrics.
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