May 17, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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With men’s fashion week well under way, Stylesight’s denim team looks to the key denim looks emerging from Milan collections. Italian favorites Diesel Black Gold, Versace and Frankie Morello ensured a denim heavy season, introducing a range of bold and statement prints that the city is known for, as well as new innovative laundry technologies like laser and resin treatments.
Donatella Versace celebrated the extreme discipline of athletes for her S/S 14 menswear show and by association – the aesthetics of sports apparel was particularly apparent throughout the collection. Kinesiology tape was an interesting design detail bringing vivid color to the jeans, while straps and zippers lent a functional element. Classic baroque-inspired prints tied back to the brands heyday of the ’80s and also tied in with J.W. Anderson’s debut prints for the recent Versus collection in New York. Other notable elements included statement matte prints burnished over stark white jeans and a denim jacket ergonomically pieced together from lace.
The first season to emerge under Nicola Formichetti’s eye as the new artistic director, Diesel Black Gold tapped into some innovative new surface techniques for S/S 14. A dark and moody palette of deep indigo and black complemented the classic workwear and motorcycle styling, but laser laundries, indigo piecing and slick, tar-like coatings gave the collection a new slant for S/S 14.
Etro’s S/S 14 collection showcased a new take on the Wild West trend, taking inspiration from Mexican cowboy styling with sombreros, bandanna prints and cowboy boots. Denim tapped rodeo styling with decorative yokes and jean panels as well as playful embellished side seams to complete the look. Indigo-on-indigo print and pattern gave the collection an eclectic, purist feel, however the show was certainly a fun, high-color affair.
Designers Pierfrancesco Gigliotti and Maurizio Modico of the Italian fashion House Frankie Morello took a more subdued and casual approach to their usual statement looks this season. A decidedly collegiate theme drove the collection with neat varsity jackets, Oxford shirts and slouchy chino-like jeans evoking the heydays of ’50s Ivy-League. Intricate and beautiful indigo jacquards injected these preppy silhouettes with a dash of tone and texture, while short/blazer combinations were giving an active spin with team stripes along hems and “Frankie Morello” team logo text embroidered along knit inserts on the sleeves.
A bohemien runway of luxurious denim surface was very apparent on Vivienne Westwood’s S/S 14 Indian-inspired collection. Innovative gradient weaves, delicate prints and jacquard boro surfaces sat beautifully with jeweled thong sandals and paisley swirl silk shirting to create a theatrical and artisanal collection. In contrast, clean, sporty indigo pieces broke up the eclectic vintage styling, giving the runway a fresh, modern angle.
Andrea Incontri’s S/S 14 show explored bright indigo casts, vintage nautical styling and bold, wide-set stripes in what was a very clean, premium take on the maritime theme. Clean whites and ecrus stood out against a deep indigo palette while azure-cast, quilted surfaces and retro woven striped tees gave styling a 50’s slant. All denims were used in rigid form, creating a glossy, premium attitude for S/S 14.
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