Feb 15, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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Milan’s menswear week has always been a hot bed for creative and bold denim design. Key designers like Versace, Diesel Black Gold, and Dsquared2 continue to revisit denim looks, delivering inspirational designs and unexpected silhouettes. The F/W 13 shows, held January 12-15, presented a barrage of techno-fabrics, fine Italian laundries, and a few eccentric oddities, showing the fashion world what the capital city is renowned for.
Dsquared2’s denim styling, despite its varying inspiration, often looks very distinct — layered denim jackets, dandy-esque styles, sartorial accessorizing of dapper ties, hats, and bags. The Italian-washed laundries are also very recognizable season after season, as well as the bowed inseam pant cut. However, the most notable update to the latest Dsquared2 show was the slightly wider-cut jean fit. That famous hem teamed with a cropped inseam drew attention to this new slouchy attitude, while still complementing the usual collegiate attitude; it certainly refreshed the look.
Missoni doesn’t usually play with much indigo in runway shows, however for F/W 13, the label incorporatied several denim-heavy looks. Inspired by the landscapes of the American West, classic cozy knits and woolens in a retro-neutral palette made up the majority of the range, and monotone double denim looks in rigid indigo served as a clean base for these textured and layered pieces. Despite the denim remaining classic (clean trucker jackets and basic 5-pocket jeans), the strong double-denim styling looked particularly fresh for the Italian brand.
For F/W 13, Diesel’s premium line Black Gold looked to the darkly bohemian rock ‘n’ roll sensibility that you now come to expect from the Italian label. Staying true to its roots, Diesel presented a plethora of denim silhouettes that were finely tuned for the runway. Rich textures and brass button military styling paid tribute to the uniforms of 1970s dandy musicians (Jimi Hendrix in particular), with a dusty and subdued palette, giving the look new direction. The suit became a central element in the collection with retro 70s silhouettes reworked in compact gunmetal denims. Fabric blocking in premium materials gave the collection a cleaner concept approach, with laser-cut leathers pieced against denim and linear panels fused together in subtle contrasting tones.
Donatella Versace invited her men to say it loud and proud for F/W 13. The “80s-rapper-meets-90s-boys band” theme gave the designer scope to experiment with the eras of big volume silhouettes and loud prints. These two decades were the defining eras of teenage style, and denim was the core of the lifestyle: the ultimate symbol of personal expression and youthful resistance. Throughout the collection, Donatella clearly referenced iconic shapes like broad shoulder jackets and stylish balloon pants snapped at the ankle, as well as more visual elements like graffiti covered surfaces. Nineties stone washes were of course a key feature, while baroque-inspired prints tied back to the brands heyday of the 80s.
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