Feb 15, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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We’re scouring the runway once again for the latest denim collections and trends. Today we concentrate on Milan’s denim highlights from Calvin Klein, Philipp Plein, Diesel Black Gold and Frankie Morello.
For S/S 13, menswear designer Italo Zucchelli returned to the brand’s identity with a particular focus on its 90s denim classics. This meant a runway of boxy, stone-washed jackets and regular 90s cut jeans, accompanied by clean white tees, bomber jackets and chinos. A sleek attitude was achieved with resin-covered black denim, giving the classic trucker a leather look. The second half of the show delved into more fashion-forward territory with indigo T-shirts and shorts printed with a graphic burnout florals, imbuing a modern-vacation feel to the collection.
Diesel Black Gold
Diesel Black Gold’s S/S 13 collection delivered a selection of vintage-inspired denim reinterpreted for today’s men with a rock chic attitude. Inspired by the anachronistic steam punk world of the 1980s to early 1990s, the collection featured masculine silhouettes and mechanical references with double-breasted denim blazers and 50s bowling shirts styled with oversized tinted shades and classic bowler hats. A modern dandy feel emerged through the tonal indigo palette that ranged from deep inky shades and deadstock blues through to barely there indigos and acid wash laundries. These colors sat alongside innovative textiles, including intricate floral embroideries stitched around the neckline of a denim bomber jacket.
Skate culture drove this very casual jeanswear show by Philipp Plein with models walking the runway clutching heavily studded skateboards, conjuring a tough-edged Venice Beach attitude for S/S 13. The design team played with colored wefts and contrast lined cuffs to refresh black and washed-out indigo. Denim was destroyed, abraded and patched to create a well-worn look. Artisanal denim shirts and scarves gave this casual denim looks a more sophisticated edge.
This season Frankie Morello showed a sporty and “ghetto fabulous”-inspired collection, where active shapes sat alongside heavy gold chains and blacked out shades for a take on this season’s bad-boy male. A muted palette of powdery indigo shades contrasted against metallic finishes, python skins and bandana prints that are all too familiar thanks to the overstated aesthetic of today’s rappers. The active mood was played out through sleeveless gilets, denim jogg jeans and updated boxing shorts with a shiny resin coating. Baseball caps, medallions, Jesus crosses and high-top sneakers all pushed the hip-hop theme forward.
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