Mar 23, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
Get more Denim insights as a WGSN subscriber
With the Men’s Fall/Winter 14 fashion week presentations ending in Milan last week, the Stylesight denim team rounds up the best denim looks to emerge from the shows.
Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared cited the attire of the institutional support system as inspiration for this season. “Guards, psychiatrists, priests and lawyers” were listed in the show notes. Alongside the artfully distressed denim the duo is renowned for, which came in slightly upsized and sporty silhouettes, we saw reverse fastened trucker jackets, beautifully tailored denim blazers and wool mix crombie coats.
“Liberace-biker” is what springs to mind upon the first sights of the Versace’s F/W 14 collection. Jewel-encrusted codpieces, bike printed double denim, embroidered jackets, oil treated dip-dye pieces – Donatella was having fun this season. Chinchilla fur and bandanna print briefs will prove popular with the hip-hop set. The red leather cowboy look probably sums up the spirit of the collection the best.
Stefano Gabbana’s reasoning behind this collection was that this whole crazy, mixed-up world has taken a turn for the medieval. The result is a collection laden with armor motifs, knitted helmets and rich velvets. Striped denim, leathers, heavy wools and oversized shearling jackets contrasted with the razor sharp suiting on show.
Always with a political and activist undertone, Westwood presented a collection based around the dangers of fracking. Models wearing black, oil-slicked hair added to the more somber tone of the collection. Heavy-duty leathers and simpler silhouettes were the main focal point. Tracksuits came in the guise of gold lame and denim was classically distressed or treated to matte black resin coatings.
“Noir Cowboy” was the name given to Plein’s F/W 14 collection. Predominantly black, this was a pared back presentation compared to seasons past. Heavily distressed denim, chap trouser details and multiple animal skins added plenty of textural interest. Johnny Cash provided a befitting soundtrack with the song “Man in Black”.
Roberto Cavalli presented a collection of multi-layered looks in dark, rich colors. Staying true to his rock and roll aesthetic, hand-tooled leathers and hybrid animal prints featured heavily. Denim came in stone washed and distressed colorways, with purposeful shredding. Cavalli used his own photographs to form print ideas, showcasing the sharp contrast of Florentine artisanship and rock and roll attitude he is so well known for.
Head over to Stylesight’s Runway Quick Look page to see the full collections and to keep up-to-date on the latest shows.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.