Jun 07, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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We’ve been keeping an eye on the latest runways for F/W 12 and put together a ‘best of’ selection of the strongest and most influential Milan denim shows from last week.
Diesel Black GoldDiesel Black Gold showed for the first time in Milan, after seasons at NY women’s fashion week. The runway show for Fall/Winter 2012 used muted darks with pops of burnished silver-coated denims and a kingfisher cobalt indigo. Tailoring mixed with more rock ‘n’ roll items such as the biker jacket, and the show even paired coated knitwear with resin-finish denim.
VersaceReturning to her label’s roots, this season Donatella decided to go all out for Versace -pattern, color and embellishment updated classic denim looks with chain detail applications, intricate stud-work and leather and fur fabric-blocked jackets. The show had a distinct Karlheinz Weinberger look with 60s biker styling and over-the-top embellishment. The whole runway collection is worth checking out for its loud prints and washes and high-color items, in addition to its strong indigo palette.
Dolce & Gabanna
With a show appropriately named “Hymn to Italy”, design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana let loose with a display of couture crafted opulence for their latest collection. Returning to their Sicilian roots, the duo delivered a dream of sartorial heritage with decadent brocade denim jackets and gold bullion embroidered pants. Following the recent discontinuing of D&G, it appeared that Domenico and Stefano kept their eyes on a fit for the younger man, showing impeccably tailored jeans with laser-frayed edges giving things a little more edge.
Queen Viv and husband Andreas Kronthaler, who heads the Men’s division of Westwood, delivered a collection of incredibly accessible denim looks this season. The show was an homage to Sir David Attenborough’s BBC documentary series The Frozen Planet, highlighting the ice-melt that will change our planet forever in ten years. Polar explorer models had frozen facial hair and “sunburnt” faces. Customised takes on the classic Western jacket came in North Pole-ready incarnations of thick shearling, waxed coatings and dual dandy tartan/denim mixes. Prints played on the punk themes of Westwood’s past with loud red plaid print jeans and subtle takes on the classic pirate squiggle on turned hems.
DSquared2For F/W 12, Dean and Dan Caten channeled the rebellious schoolboy, presenting a runway collection made to mimic a schoolroom complete with models throwing paper airplanes at the teacher and smoking cigarettes. The collection comprised school-day classics for both teacher and student, including the 80s bomber, the parker, the smart shirt and tie, and the sartorial vest. Highlights included an embellished sleeve trucker with magpie collected coins and buttons, and an argyle laser-printed fitted denim shirt. Pant fits remained slim and tapered with clean, unrolled hems.
Never boring, Frankie Morello is the wildcard in the Italian pack when it comes to Milan men’s fashion week. Designers Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti seemed to combine two collections in one – a punk-luxe feast and an earthy mountain man jamboree – disparate themes united by glam injections and lots of flair. True to form, the standout denim looks out of the gate were jeans encrusted with an eclectic mix of buttons and badges teamed with studded lace-up creepers (imagine the Sid Vicious “My Way” video filmed at Liberace’s mansion). The second part of the show made up the “California bohemian meets Cobain rocker” section; the designers played with denim textures and ombre dye techniques to add a very psychedelic element to the show.
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