Apr 13, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Milan Fashion Week wrapped up last Tuesday, June 23rd with a schedule packed with denim. Here, we round up the best looks from the week in the Italian capital.
1. Neil Barrett
With raw denim at the core of the collection, Barrett drew heavily from the 1950s-era rockabilly in particular, offering up a range of premium Japanese denims in retro fits alongside tonal indigo leopard prints.
2. Calvin Klein
S/S 16 saw Calvin Klein designer Italo Zucchelli’s deliver more of his sharp and strong minimalistic aesthetic with plenty of urban street style offerings. Most notable was the shimmering waves of stonewashed blue denims that splashed across trucker jackets, jeans and sweatshirts. But denim it was not – rather stiff jacquard surfaces made to replicate the classic twill.
Silvia Venturini focused on the idea of deception for her S/S 16 outing for Fendi, offering up a collection of dark and deceptively cool pieces with high-class urban attitude. Denim appeared in glossy raw surfaces but was treated to subtle twists like this matte pigment spray in controlled gradients.
In just a short three shows, Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, has swiftly changed the industry’s perception of the Italian fashion juggernaut. The S/S 16 menswear presentation showcased the new exciting, youthful and cool attitude with models sent out in geeky 70s style. This included sharp flares, retro shirts as well as some splashes of bleached denim.
This season, Massimo Gioretti drove MSGM outside of its signature prints and vibrant colour that the brand has become know for. Swapping pop in favour of something more mature, Gioretti looked instead to a light and natural palette in denim, flat cotton twills as well as some eco-leather and eco-suede.
6. Jil Sander
For S/S 16, designer Rodolfo Pagialunga added a more urban attitude to the houses signature minimalistic heritage. Functional yet protective clothing was key with pieces appearing in stiff coated canvas, durable denims and parachute nylons. A selection of three standout looks used vintage-esque Japanese floral textiles paired with rigid denim that added a more playful element to otherwise banal basics.
Twin designers Dean and Dan Caten take the DSquared2 man on an endless summer hunt with a vibrant and eclectic collection that came straight out of Cali Surf camp. From slouchy slacker jeans to board shorts and wetsuit-inspired jeans, the duo offered up a dose of SoCal cool.
8. Dolce & Gabbana
Entitled “The Chinese Palace,” after the landmark located in Palermo, the infamous design duo looked to ways to blend the exotic Orient with the duo’s favourite Sicilian style. Amongst the silk printed suits were a selection of ripped jeans and some perfectly faded or lavishly embroidered and embellished with Chinese iconography.
9. Diesel Black Gold
Creating a total look for the quintessential rock performer, Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad refined the labels usual chaotic and overly designed aesthetic with a sense of order and zen. Skinny jeans came in patent leather black, slouchy powder grey or white jeans – expertly distressed and weathered.
10. Antonio Marras
Antonio Marras perfectly captured the type of Italian summer that dreams are made of that was depicted through the life of a Sardinian sailor. Models were dressed in navy blue French berets and and range of seafaring favourites like breton stripes, kerchiefs as well as a heavy dose of raw denim crafted into workwear jackets and cropped jeans.
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