Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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Jan 19, 2017
By Jian DeLeon
Milan Fashion Week is officially over, and before we dive into our coverage of the equally exciting Paris shows, we took a closer look at the Italian runways. Home to menswear sartorial traditions, there was an impressive output from storied houses like Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Fendi, and Versace.
But what’s also promising is the rise of younger brands in Milan. In addition to local favourite MSGM, home-grown label Sunnei continues to show an impressive mix of casual, lounge-inspired clothing. Francesco Ragazzi’s Palm Angels is poised to whet the appetites of a growing cadre of global streetwear fans.
In case you missed it, check out the best collections we saw at London Collections: Men. Below, we highlight some of our favourites from the Milanese catwalks. For more designers to watch, we just published our Best of Men’s: Milan report, which WGSN subscribers can view here.
In a nutshell: Return-to-roots minimalism with upscale materials.
Inspiration: Miuccia Prada has had simplicity on the mind, an inspiration that translates into no-nonsense menswear elevated with elegant silhouettes and sumptuous materials. Corduroy features prominently, not just in voluminous trousers but in several outerwear pieces ranging from workwear-inspired field jackets to luxurious trench coats. The textured fabric features prominently in classic tan shades, but stands out when rendered in an appropriately autumnal burnt orange, or a deep red burgundy. A sparse use of jewel tones and other bright colours infuse a nostalgic ‘70s attitude into a collection of commercially-viable, trans-seasonal menswear staples.
In a nutshell: Relaxed rebellion with a youthful sensibility.
Inspiration: Sunnei desigers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo expanded on the idea of well-dressed teenagers sneaking out to party—dressing up their pyjamas before slipping out the window. The loungewear influence is felt throughout loose-fitting silhouettes contrasted with pragmatic outerwear like puffa jackets and cobalt-blue lined fur coats, hardy materials sure to protect the delicate cottons underneath. Pyjama patterns inspired the lounge-inspired stripes characterizing many of the shirts and coordinates in the collection, while guncheck suits and coats channeled a more traditional menswear approach.
In a nutshell: Elevated skatewear with touches of thrift store grunge.
Inspiration: Francesco Ragazzi’s two-year old Palm Angels serves as a side hustle to his day job—Art Director at Moncler—but his fledgling label shows serious promise this season. The youthful attitude of this collection draws directly from Ragazzi’s book with the same name, which showcased photos of skaters in downtown Los Angeles. The city’s high-low attitude shines in pieces like green trackpants with a coordinating taped blazer. All-over logo sweatsuits similarly exhibit a buzzy streetwear appeal, though vintage-inspired graphics featuring animals like wolves on faded hoodies also emanate with an air of upscale skatewear.
To see all of our favourite Milan Fashion Week collections, subscribers can view our Best of Men’s: Milan report.
To see all the best menswear trends from Milan Fashion Week, subscribers can view our Milan Men’s Apparel Stylefile report.
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