May 01, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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From perennial favorites like Dsquared2 and Roberto Cavalli to brash and spangled Blumarine and through to demure and lady-like Krizia, we present a detailed look at the key denim collections to arise out of the Milano Fall/Winter 2012 runways.
Channelling 50s and 60s youth rebellion, DSquared2’s F/W 12 Runway was awash with debutantes on their way to prom night, but with a playful DSquared2-style twist. The beehive hairdos, capri-cigarette pants and skinny mohair jumpers were styled up with mom’s borrowed furs, classic collegiate sweatshirts and plenty of sass and attitude. Our all-time favorite look and mood-setter of the show was the floor-sweeping satin skirt with elbow-length opera gloves, teamed with a fur-trimmed indigo trucker slung effortlessly over the shoulders. Dean and Dan know how to do denim well, and jeans and skirts were done in classic archival 50s shapes in raw indigos and subtle wash-downs. Denim jackets were used as mid-layers, giving smarter looks a casual attitude.
The Fall/Winter 2012 collection designed by Roberto Cavalli for the second Just Cavalli rides the 60s wave (spirit of London in the 60s to be precise). Inspiration was found in long-sleeved, drop-waisted dresses with tightly laced inserts and modish striped jeans. The neo-hippy trend also came through in vaguely psychedelic animal prints – the proposed style recalled the disco music linked to Studio 54. Thanks to the use of corseted skinny jeans and matching denim short sleeved dresses, it outlines a bold and decisive femininity.
Deep and rigid indigo grounded this demure F/W 12 collection by Italian establishment, Krizia. Classic slim-legged 5 pocket jeans shared the runway with more directional zip-through tee-shirt shapes, longline fitted shell jackets and coated glossy black looks. There was a touch of active influence styling up this relatively classic range, with micro sport-shorts making the biggest statement and adding a bit of sexiness to an otherwise restrained attitude.
Designer Anna Molinari and her fearless stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele presented a Fall collection all about metallics and holograms. It was “positively shining,” staying true to the show’s title – except for a brief jaunt through the label’s perennial head-to-toe animal prints. Standout items like sequinned pants pavéd in iridescent studs spelling out “jolie,” “wow,” and other superlatives certainly confirmed Molinari’s enthusiasm and renowned positive attitude.
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