Sep 22, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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So much runway inspiration these last few days! We’re moving on from cruise and into the menswear shows from Milan. We’ve picked seven of the most inspirational collections and will post four today and three tomorrow, so stay tuned.
Milan: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s S/S 12 collection for D&G espoused hobo chic, where silk, denim, and linen were patched together to create elegantly ramshackle trousers, shorts, and shirts that benefited from the best of all three materials. The designers’ obsession with silk foulard remixes were best demonstrated through the variety of denim combinations of patched jean waistbands and pieced denim workshirts. Shadow pockets and distressed and abraded jeans added D&G’s signature rugged edge. The resort theme was highlighted through active inspired blouson jackets, chambray Bermudas and cropped denim blazers – everything a vacationing gentleman should be wearing while cruising.
Christopher Bailey showed a sunny assortment of African prints, artisanal techniques and rustic materials for his S/S 12 Burberry show. Naming his collection “Handcrafted Heritage” was an apt title for time-honored items with handcrafted wooden toggles, weathered metal buttons, printed jacket linings and ethnic appliqués. Traditional workwear jackets were re-designed with simple modernity and classic blazers were given a high-break point and rendered in chambray in a nod to heritage styling. Deep and saturated blues sat perfectly with a rich and vibrant palette.
The Vivienne Westwood MAN show announced a Greek Olympian theme, where laurel headbands and bold prints of torches were highlighted amidst tailored denim ensembles and daring holiday themed looks. Pinstripe suit jackets met with double denim looks of classic denim shirts and skewed jeans, while plaid patterns in indigo/ecru (staple Westwood signatory themes) were sketched onto denim pants. As ever, propositions for jackets were present; saturated indigo chore coats featured white leather inserts with asymmetric placed pockets and upsized utility vests all with the ubiquitous Westwood logo that fans the world over have come to adore and collect.
designer Italo Zucchelli looked to hyper-masculine influences like Navy SEALs, boxers and 90s rappers for his S/S 12 collection. With a strong techno-inspired collection, denim coatings and active references modernized traditional 5-pocket styles. A smooth, nylon-like gloss coated sportswear styles like vests and tees, taking denim into a new arena. Other classics were reinterpreted with technological touches like trim blazers and suits in tiled suede or rubber.
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