Paris: After a one-season hiatus from the runway, Mihara Yasuhiro’s namesake collection was back on the Paris schedule with a somber ode to the sartorial rebel and his home country of Japan. A bleak post-tsunami year inspired the designer to take an intellectual yet refined approach for clothes that were as cozy as they were utilitarian. Knit Fair Isle blousons, a double-faced pea coat, oversized plaid flannel suits and shearling-lined parkas balanced out a super-subtle military influence. The inside of cuffs on outerwear revealed traditional Japanese embroidery, and suits featured camouflage motifs that resembled breezy clouds — woven from kimono silk with a technique that has been used for over a thousand years. Mihara’s continual dedication to Japanese craftsmanship via inspiring fabrics and soft layers brought a romantic flourish to a week that is often driven by hard-edged aesthetics and aggressive silhouettes.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Black / Charcoal / Cadet blue / Olive / Khaki / Brown

Key Items: Pieced cable knit sweaters / Parkas / Pea coats / Relaxed plaid suits / Ruby stripe crew neck sweaters / Leather bombers / Silk suits / Utility down vests

Materials: Felted wool / Cashmere / Tweed / Kimono silk / Leather / Shearling

Details + Trim: Double-faced fabrics / Fair Isle pieced construction / Fur hoods / Contrast patterns on cuffs / Utility pockets / Japanese embroidery / Cropped pants / Draw string closures on pants

Footwear: Lug sole Oxfords / Lace-up boots

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