Miguel Androver for Hessnatur

New York: Controversial designer Miguel Androver in collaboration with eco-brand Hessnatur, returned to the NYFW stage with a provocative presentation completely comprised of what appeared to be repurposed vintage apparel. Tee shirts, windbreakers, and (most impressively) a mens blazer were fashioned into skirts, while coats were flipped and spun to form a host of unconventional outerwear proportions. Many may recall that Androver has long explored this redefinition of garment identity and duration-of-use (his FW 2000 collection featured a classic Burberry trench, worn backward and inside-out), but most will still be intrigued by the extent to which the concept was pushed during his most recent presentation. Clearly a commentary on fashion’s culture of consumption, the collection poses many stimulating questions about the manner in which we define a garment’s lifespan. –Kibwe Chase-Marshall

Silhouette: Slouchy / Stacked / Layered / Cocoon / Drop-waist

Color: Black / White / Khaki / Navy / Forest / Crimson / Cerulian / Chocolate / Silt / Rust / Teal

Key Items: Blazer-come-skirt / Drop-waist T-skirt / Cowl-hooded popover / Multi-belted trouser / Cocoon cape / Hybrid-tee

Materials: Cotton twill / Nylon athletic mesh / Wool suiting / Cotton poplin / Silk georgette / Silk chiffon / Stretch matte jersey

Print + Pattern: Placed Egyptian Icon / Polynesian floral / Screen-printed panther / Bordered stripe

Details + Trim: Piecing / Exposed stitch / Multi-yoked waists / Braided embroidery / Angled Peplum / Fringe

Accessories + Footwear: Glove-adorned pump / Baseball hat / 10-gallon hat / Feather-framed tam hat


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