Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: For Fall Michael Kors drew inspiration from bright lights, big city; a kind of urban athleticism meets uptown polish. “I moved uptown during the hurricane, and suddenly it was a mix of downtowners uptown, reminding me of the early 80s when it was a big mash-up of people at clubs and restaurants,” Kors told us, post show. The collection had an attitude based on speed, endurance and glamour. “There always has to be glamour,” said Kors. He managed to bring his 80s revisit into 2013 with a nod back in time to the 50s as well. “I love surfing the different decades,” the designer continued. There was a modernized midcentury influence in the graphic dogstooth check mink stoles, felted jersey peplums and long, full perforated skirts, styled with rubberized skin-tight pullovers. Vivid electric colors were inspired by the streets of New York: Taxicab yellow, Neon orange and Royal blue were juxtaposed with pavement charcoal. A luxe camo-patterned mink was styled with merino leggings. Kors also showed biker-inspired styles, with heavy zips strategically placed to reveal high slits. Gleaming metallic fabrics accentuated sleek structured pinafore dresses and separates; streamlined bags and pumps and bold oversized goggles added to the futuristic notion. But it was the modern assemblage of materials, heat-sealed closures, play with proportions and graphic color blocking that moved the collection forward. The show ended with a parade of long floating silk parachute gowns with black bodices, long trains and short draped fronts. The last dress was a crystal-covered black peplum gown — full-on glamour, the Kors way. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Exaggerated / Lean / Boxy / Tailored / 80s / 50s
Color: Taxicab yellow / Neon orange / Royal / Olive / Charcoal / Black / White
Key Items: Mink fur camo coat / Leather-paneled peplum jackets with metal zips / Strapless leather corsets / Perforated 50s skirt / Parachute gowns
Materials: Leather – bonded or plain / Silk / Melton / Felted wool / Double gabardine / Mink fur / Second-skin jersey / Parachute silk
Print + Pattern: Camouflage patterns in different scales / Color and fabric blocking
Details + Trim: Contrasting leather and fabric / Leather paneling / Color blocking / Elbow patches / Heavy metallic zips / Quilting
Accessories + Footwear: Streamlined pumps / Bold belts / Structured metallic bags / Fold-over clutch / Goggle shades / High-shine motor gloves
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