MFW S/S18: Jil Sander, a curated approach with a minimalist aesthetic

Milan: Away from all the freneticism that goes hand in hand with many shows during Fashion month, Lucie and Luke Meier presented their debut collection quietly against a poignant background, ( a Zaha Hadid designed building)synonymous with their design aesthetic and that of the brand’s founder. Sander was a minimalist in her approach and one that the pair’s own philosophy resonated with; consequently, the Meiers looked back to her work stating “A lot of the time, the first impression of her is cold, sparse, and hard. What she did, was also feminine, light, and sensual; that was the approach for us.” In a palette of stark black and white, the Meiers sent out silhouettes that were modernist and streamlined, the Sander suits were there, carefully reconstructed and coordinated with white shirts..but not just any white shirt – these pieces were given soft curvilinear sleeves in generous proportions. The handcrafting was sublime, rendering modern shapes with architectural precision; volumes were cut, spliced and layered providing a tactile individuality to the collection. The presentation naturally transcended into other shapes – sweater dresses, colour-blocked asymmetrically with open stitch while the macramé on white dresses that followed, also delicately smocked, provided a welcome alternative with a handcrafted sensibility. A considered approach to a well-executed collection – Jil Sander will not be disappointed. – Lizzy Bowring 

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