Dec 06, 2018 | By Jane Boddy
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Sep 22, 2017
Milan: There was a sense of business stamped throughout Miuccia Prada’s new collection, punctuated with an unabashed youthful yet streetwise confidence; seeing giant cartoons sketched dominantly across the walls and the sombre grey runway, you knew there was some deep philosophical message about to be revealed.
That the cartoons had been created by female artists both contemporary and from the 30s and 60s, revealed a great deal – along with female empowerment, and a stealth-like militant attitude. The toughness to this collection, seen in the dominant ‘shades of grey’ palette, was punctuated with shots of red, achieved by creasing material and screen printing flat so as to expose the jarring coloured slashes hidden underneath.
Handcrafting was evident elsewhere in tailored pieces that were basted; exaggerated jackets with sleeves pushed up at the elbows, the raincoat, shorts embellished with haberdashery – buttons, rhinestones and beads, tweed coats and in particular, the sleeveless jacket that looked as if some rebellious femme had taken blunt scissors and defiantly chopped around the seams to reveal unfinished edges. The accessories too, had that Miuccia stamp, bags with cartoon prints, kitten heels embellished to the tip of pointed toes and printed knee socks. This is the sort of presentation we like to see from Prada – thoughtful wearable pieces with that unique Muiccia touch. A gritty edge to a most compelling lineup from Prada and certainly one to set the brand back on a successful track. – Lizzy Bowring
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