Am I the only one who got all revved up for Kris Van Asscheâ€™s first Dior Homme effort only to ask, â€œThatâ€™s it?â€ To be fair, Iâ€™m probably just suffering from the effects of PHS (Post Hedi Slimane) and wouldnâ€™t fall in love with anything the new Creative Head came up with, so itâ€™s really not his fault. The all black, white and grey collection was presented as a series of three tableaux (nobody move!) with â€˜morning, day and evening looks,â€™ which begs the question: what exactly is a â€˜morning look?â€™ My â€˜morning lookâ€™ is usually wet hair and a towel wrapped around me while Iâ€™m trying to find something clean to wear. Wisely, this was not a look Van Assche latched on to, preferring to stick mainly with button downs, suits and those near-ubiquitous Hammer pants I know you’re all getting psyched for!
The skinny pants may bring Slimane to mind, but the jacket is pure Van Assche: double-breasted and beautifully detailed.
Moving the volume from the bottom to the top with inventive sleeves.
If the clothes make the model look bad, there is no hope. This guy knows that.
Joining the ranks of designers doing double duty, Van Assche also presented his eponymous line. He managed to make pleated pants sexy and was willing to take risks, but somehow this collection lacked the effortless sense of playfulness found in his previous efforts. Still, the man loves his vests and I certainly canâ€™t argue with that!
I see this and all I can think of is Chris Farley singing â€œFat Guy In a Little Coat,â€ which is never a good thing. Youâ€™d have to be this good looking to pull off a look this rumpled.
This is so Van Assche: baggy pants, white shoes, white shirt and a waistcoat. Whatâ€™s ruining it for me is the Uncle Jesse look-a-like whoâ€™s wearing these beautiful things.
Iâ€™m a sucker for mustard yellow, especially when paired with a crisp white.
Giving new meaning to the term â€˜double breasted,â€™ this jacket was one of the standout pieces for me.
I like these long johns. I like the modelâ€™s stomach. I donâ€™t understand why the waistcoat had to come along and ruin everything.
This was my favorite piece because it looks like a womenâ€™s shirt from Built By Wendy, which I mean in a loving way. Though it might not be what Van Assche would want to hear.
You see this and you think, â€œThatâ€™d be good for sleeping, oh wait! Thatâ€™s really meant to be a shirt. Huh. Maybe it would work better under a jacket?â€
But your hope will turn out to be misguided, because it looks just as bad under a jacket.
Van Assche ended the show with a parade of white waistcoats that brought to mind the most beautiful cadre of waiters youâ€™ve ever laid eyes on.
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