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MENSWEAR MONDAY: Kris Van Assche's Double Duty

dior tableau

Am I the only one who got all revved up for Kris Van Assche’s first Dior Homme effort only to ask, “That’s it?” To be fair, I’m probably just suffering from the effects of PHS (Post Hedi Slimane) and wouldn’t fall in love with anything the new Creative Head came up with, so it’s really not his fault. The all black, white and grey collection was presented as a series of three tableaux (nobody move!) with ‘morning, day and evening looks,’ which begs the question: what exactly is a ‘morning look?’ My ‘morning look’ is usually wet hair and a towel wrapped around me while I’m trying to find something clean to wear. Wisely, this was not a look Van Assche latched on to, preferring to stick mainly with button downs, suits and those near-ubiquitous Hammer pants I know you’re all getting psyched for!

dior skinnypants

The skinny pants may bring Slimane to mind, but the jacket is pure Van Assche: double-breasted and beautifully detailed.

dior sleeves

Moving the volume from the bottom to the top with inventive sleeves.

dior repentance

If the clothes make the model look bad, there is no hope. This guy knows that.

da boys

Joining the ranks of designers doing double duty, Van Assche also presented his eponymous line. He managed to make pleated pants sexy and was willing to take risks, but somehow this collection lacked the effortless sense of playfulness found in his previous efforts. Still, the man loves his vests and I certainly can’t argue with that!van assche hot grey

I see this and all I can think of is Chris Farley singing “Fat Guy In a Little Coat,” which is never a good thing. You’d have to be this good looking to pull off a look this rumpled.

van assche uncle jesse

This is so Van Assche: baggy pants, white shoes, white shirt and a waistcoat. What’s ruining it for me is the Uncle Jesse look-a-like who’s wearing these beautiful things.

van assche mustard pants

I’m a sucker for mustard yellow, especially when paired with a crisp white.

van assche black jacket

Giving new meaning to the term ‘double breasted,’ this jacket was one of the standout pieces for me.

van assche pajamas

I like these long johns. I like the model’s stomach. I don’t understand why the waistcoat had to come along and ruin everything.

van assche built by wendy

This was my favorite piece because it looks like a women’s shirt from Built By Wendy, which I mean in a loving way. Though it might not be what Van Assche would want to hear.

van assche big white shirt

You see this and you think, “That’d be good for sleeping, oh wait! That’s really meant to be a shirt. Huh. Maybe it would work better under a jacket?”

van assche big shirt with jacket

But your hope will turn out to be misguided, because it looks just as bad under a jacket.

van assche white waistcoat

Van Assche ended the show with a parade of white waistcoats that brought to mind the most beautiful cadre of waiters you’ve ever laid eyes on.

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  • alexander léger

    overall, double unimpressed. his collection for fall was WAY better. it had much more of a feeling. could it be that now that he’s a creative head, he’s afraid to throw in his true panche?

    i think yr right about phs. and i think mr van assche has it as well. let’s pray that next season he gives us more of his own p.o.v.

  • At 1st when I saw the DH show I too had PHS, but upon closer inspection I liked the slim cuts that still had the touch of what Dior Homme is (was?).

    I am also liking the way he did the button flys on the long johns for the KVA line and it was on some of the trousers. I love his waist coats, the styling is not always “wearable”, but I think seeing the clothes as individual pieces they are quite beautiful.

  • ooooh yes, i did love those buttons. i didn’t hate these collections ( i like that KVH!) but i wasn’t in love love love like i know i can be with his work.

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