May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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ALL GROWN UP
London: The London collections this season have offered plenty of surprises (see Tom Ford’s print-happy show and Erdem’s uncharacteristically somber offering), and Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff provided yet another. The design duo is known for its ebullient, colorful, and youthful style, but they opted for a more grown-up look for fall. Inspired by the Pope’s garments but made from shiny PVC, the opening looks offered a touch of subversion, but their clean lines signaled a new sense of restraint. There were also items that one would not typically associate with the label, such as sophisticated skirt suits and boxy Chanel-inspired jackets. The designers have often gravitated toward Victorian details, and those also appeared here. High ruffled necklines, crisp white cotton bibs, and darkly romantic lace veils all connected to the era. It was by far Meadham Kirchhoff’s most mature collection to date, yet it still contained many of the label’s signature details, making it less of a whiplash-inducing shift. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Boxy / Dropped flounce / Fit-and-flare / Tent
Color: Black / White / Gold / Silver / Bronze / Buttery yellow / Sepia / Peach
Key Items: Victorian shirtdresses / Tailored skirt suits / Slashed jacquard coat / PVC separates
Materials: PVC / Metallic tweed / Jacquard / Crisp cotton / Velvet / Delicate lace / Printed CDC / Swiss dot
Print + Pattern: Texture prints / Conversational ballerina motifs
Details + Trim: Victorian collars / Contrast bibs / Tiered ruffles / Dropped flounces / Peplums / Lace trim / Piecing / Double-breasted closures
Accessories + Footwear: Lace veils / Tiaras / Printed headscarves / Knitted knee-high socks / Opaque tights / Pointy-toe metallic flats with ankle straps
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