17 hours ago | By Alice Gividen
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London: Ben Kirchhoff and Ed Meadham took a 180-degree turn from last season’s avant-garde rainbow of punkish femme frocks, transforming this season’s collection into a literal flash mob of sinister uniformity. The entire cast of models marched the catwalk simultaneously in ultra-layered yet pared-down shapes that demonstrated the power of simplicity. A palette of black and white with fiery red accents added to the less-is-more philosophy. The details held the key to the designers’ ‘90s riot grrl meets traditional folklore inspiration. Slightly devilish schoolgirl pinafores were given volume and shape by exaggerated layers of petticoats and underthings, while smocked peasant tops, hand-worked knits and decorative embroidery with motifs of lipsticks, girls fighting and ducks maintained a bucolic charm.
Color: Midnight black / Ivory / Fiery red / Ice blue / Light taupe
Key Items: Peasant blouse / Coatdress / Pinafore dress / Toggle jacket / Deconstructed tees / Tartan blanket throws / Chemise blouse
Materials: Bouclé wool / Cotton / Curled sheepskin fleece / Shearling / Linen / Chiffon / Lace / Linton tweed / Hand-worked knits
Details + Trim: Double-breasted closures / Dense layering / Pleated chiffon and lace underlayers / Knife and car wash pleating / Raw hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Wide-brimmed hat / Hand knit socks and stockings / Scrunched suede gloves / Woven rosary necklaces / Laced shoeties / Ribbon hair bows / Bouclé collars
Print + Pattern: Folkloric embroidery / Cable knitting / Tartan / Novelty knit patterns
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