May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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A PROMISING DEBUT
New York: Alistair Carr, the former Pringle of Scotland designer, presented his first collection for McQ this season. Carr drew from McQueen’s rich archives, reinterpreting elements for which the late designer was known. Dramatic silhouettes, a McQueen signature, made an appearance here. A surfeit of peplums made for a constructed hourglass shape, while firm fabrics, such as heavy felted wools were formed into precise A-lines. Print was another key story. Nature-inspired mirror image motifs, which made such an impact in McQueen’s past collections, were reimagined here. Both a fiery fuchsia and orange print and a cool blue and white motif seemed to have been inspired by insects’ wings. Carr wisely included a tartan, a key pattern this season and one that recalled McQueen’s 1995 “Highland Rape” collection. References aside, Carr’s offering was an impressive debut, filled with wearable, on-trend items that pushed boundaries without going over the top.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Constructed hourglass / A-line / Long and lean / Hourglass
Color: Black / True red / Burgundy / Bordeaux / Fuchsia / Bright orange / Navy / Dusty blue / White
Key Items: Peplum coats / Printed slim pants / Cable knit sweaters / Tartan dresses / A-line dresses
Materials: Heavy felted wool / Leather / Flannel / Medium-gauge yarns / Printed silks / Twill / Denim
Print + Pattern: Tartan / Nature-inspired mirror image prints / Abstract black and white stripes
Details + Trim: Peplums / Zip closures / Hook-and-eye closures / Piecing / Notched hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Printed minaudieres / Envelope clutches / Medium-width leather belts / High-heeled booties
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