May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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London: Sarah Burton has triumphed in the face of adversity for the last year and a half, taking the reins at Alexander McQueen upon the passing of the brand’s critically lauded namesake. While she has managed to create the directional, high-drama ready-to-wear that garnered the collection endless press under McQueen himself, re-developing the brand’s diffusion line presented a somewhat different set of challenges. McQ is expected to both embody the provocative and fearless spirit of the main line, while occupying a discernibly more accessible and wearable place in the consumer’s mind. With her F/W 12 presentation for the McQ line —a brisk trot through the Scottish Highlands—Burton accomplished just that. The forest and its autumnal foliage supplied much inspiration as loden-toned, military outerwear grew tyrolean with dense ivy embroidery and maple leaf-etched velvet was cut into a Bordeaux-toned velvet frock-coat. Cocktail looks offered a playful diversion via explosions of multi-toned silk petals, embroidered upon frothy tulle crinolines. -Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Hourglass / Narrow / Fit and flare / Tailored / Belted / Princess line
Color: Hunter green / Loden / Birch / Burgundy / Deep plum / Black / Pure white / Hickory / Gold / Tangerine / Fuchsia / Azure / Canary
Key Items: Tailored military outerwear / Leather Outerwear / Strapless-coreseted dress / Full-skirted evening dress
Materials: Wool-melton coating / Fur / Distressed leather / Wool Gabardine / Shearling / Etched-velvet / Tulle / Stretch tulle-mesh
Print + Pattern: Blackwatch Plaid / Tossed maple leaves / Symmetrical botanical
Details + Trim: Dense thread embroidery / Applique / Oversized flap pocket / Oversized cuff / Fur paneling
Accessories + Footwear: Knee-high brogue-boot / Ankle brogue-boot / Ankle-cuff pump / Fur neck-warmer / Chain-harnessed leather belt / Leather bird keeper’s glove
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