16 hours ago | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Californian Couturier Rick Owens knows how to drape and construct, he also knows exactly what he is doing. This assured collection was called Sphinx – the same title as his menswear – but this was less provocative, and more autobiographical. With draped robes, sculpted wool felt silhouettes and an almost monastic clarity of line and shape Owens looked to his mother’s Mexican heritage, inspired by the Mayan style of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House, in Los Angeles. From the angular lines, the tone-on-tone twists of fabric and the flora motifs, the collection was softly understated, flecks of gold and silver square sequins – the first time he has ever used sequins – or frills of fur the key design ‘twist’ from this avant-garde design master. There was prismatically patched embroidery, monochrome felts and furs, and back-fastened shells and mantles, where the excess fabrics reminded him of seahorses. There was plenty to take in, padded nylons, windbreakers, seamed suede to ‘feather’ fur trims. His finale looks, were paved with trailing gold fringes and sequins, worn by models with gold and silver-foiled faces – Mayan masks of his sphinx. – Camilla Morton
Theme: Sphinx – Arcadia rather than Anarchy
Key Items: Draped robes / Draped and twisted shifts / Windbreakers
Colours: Stone grey / Black/ Charcoal / Chestnut
Materials and Trims: Wool felt / Padded nylon / Felts / Fur / Seamed suede / Prism sequin patchwork
Print and Pattern: Blossom motifs / Geometric diagrams / Prismatic patchwork / Monochromatic felts and furs / Back fastened shells
Accessories and Footwear: Flat sandals / Socks
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