May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: It seems 2013 will be the year of David Bowie. His retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London has put his inimitable style in the limelight once again, and designers are taking note. Several have already mentioned him as an influence for their Pre-Fall collections, and Max Mara’s head designer Ian Griffiths joined the crew. Bowie’s more flamboyant looks would have clashed with the sophisticated Max Mara aesthetic, so Griffiths looked to the 1971 album, Hunky Dory, and the period surrounding its release, during which the designer stated that Bowie projected a “cool, elegant chic.” The wide-leg pants on the album’s back cover were reinterpreted in a variety of colors. They were often paired with tunics for an on-trend long-over-long silhouette. A classic camel trench was a reference to the label’s roots in outerwear, and a pair of robe-inspired coats – in particular, the shaggy white angora version – would have appealed to the thin white duke himself.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long-over-long / Columnar / Roomy / A-line
Color: Camel / Turquoise / Cream / Black / Navy / Cinnamon / Winter white
Key Items: Wide-leg trousers / Robe-like coats / Classic trench / Pieced tunics
Materials: Fluid wool suitings / Heavy wool for coats / Silk crepe / Sheared or crushed fur / Airy CDC / Fine-gauge cashmere
Print + Pattern: Abstract geometrics
Details + Trim: Fur panels / Color blocking / Tie waists and necklines / Self-belts / Trench details
Accessories + Footwear: Wide-brimmed hats / Wraparound sunglasses / Lariat necklaces / Chain necklaces / Stacked metal bangles / Suede and leather long gloves / Luxe totes / Peep-toe platforms
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