Max Mara

Milan: Max Mara advocated a single-minded march toward utility for F/W 12, working in a limited palette of olive, camel and black for military-inspired separates. As always, the label produced a full range of outerwear, this time primarily oversized cashmere great coats with wide lapels and a relaxed fit or crocodile embossed leather three-quarter length jackets. Styled with tough brimmed caps, suspenders and thick leather spats, fitted turtlenecks and maritime stripes complimented cropped wide leg trousers as well as stretchy pencil skirts, while jumpsuits and strapless dresses layered over camp shirts seemed fresh. Satin eveningwear progressed away from the pervasive military theme and thus looked out of place, but these shiny all-white ensembles were still perfectly serviceable cocktail hour options. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Relaxed / Oversized / Fitted / Tapered

Color: Olive / Black / White / Camel / Army green / Chocolate

Key Items: Pleated shorts / Oversize full-length skirts / Jumpsuits / Strapless dresses / Cropped trousers / Turtlenecks / Utility button-ups / Capes / Leather pencil skirts / Peacoats / Knit crewnecks / Relaxed suit jackets / Wrap dresses/ Camp shirts

Materials: Wool / Crocodile embossed leather / Felt / Cashmere / Patent leather / Stretch jersey / Fur / Satin / Silk

Print + Pattern: Stripes / Checks

Details + Trim: Gathering / Pleating / Oversized collars / Self-belts / Ribbing / Slits / Hoods / Leather trim / Contrast collars / Fur sleeves / Epaulettes / Patch pockets

Accessories + Footwear: Corset belts / Metallic mary-janes / Spats / Military caps / Suspenders / Oversized barrel bags / Angular sunglasses / Oversize spectacles / Slim silk scarves / Leather utility belts


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