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Maurizio Pecoraro

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UNDERSTATED ORNATE

Milan: Despite its layers upon layers of embellishment and statement-making design details, Maurizio Pecoraro’s F/W 2010 collection managed to look more understated and feminine than gaudy. Woven wools in chalky blue-grays and dusty mauves made structured suits less aggressive, while heathered brown knits looked soft and worn. Mongolian lamb accents were dyed to match, making for easy surface transitions, and seemingly simple textures revealed themselves to be complex and ornate when seen close-up. Perforated leather, chain mesh, bejeweled appliqués, and rosettes quietly formed elaborate patterns on tops, dresses, and coats. What looked like a ribbed texture from afar turned out to be hundreds of tiny vertical chains. When the models turned, things were not always as they had seemed from the front; what looked like a fur vest turned out to be a modern stole that sat across the shoulders like a collar. Clever ideas were executed in a modest way, allowing ornate elements to have a gentle appeal, and making for a collection full of individual pieces that were surprisingly wearable and versatile.

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