May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Matthew Williamson is known for his luxe bohemian aesthetic, but his fall collection had a cleaner, more pared down feel. Instead of the typical riot of prints, in many cases Williamson allowed the colors to convey his signature upbeat sensibility. Citrus-y yellow tones appeared in abundance, from the opening number, a collarless coat with chevron inserts, to a killer wrapped pencil skirt. Later, magentas and sapphire blues added richness. Williamson couldn’t resist his beloved prints for long, however, and he soon introduced a romantic floral, which was later mixed with folkloric geometric patterns. Boxy woven separates featuring horizontal stripes recalled South American traditional garments. Toward the end of the show, Williamson let out an ikat or two. Though not exactly a departure, the addition of the cleaner, simpler pieces to the designer’s bohemian repertoire was an appealing move and may attract new clients to the label. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Boxy / Slim / Easy A-line / Long layers / Columnar
Color: Citrus / Magenta / Light green / Black / White / Pale blue / Taupe / Dusty blue / Navy / Sage / Poppy / Silver / Orange / Sapphire
Key Items: Citrus collarless coat / Wrap skirts / Printed tunics
Materials: Matte suitings / Felted wool / Fine-gauge yarns / Blanket-woven wool / Chiffon / Filmy silks / Burnout velvet / Fur
Print + Pattern: Chevrons / Vintage florals / Gradated stripes / Folkloric geometrics / Ikats / Landscapes
Details + Trim: Silk fringe / Sequins / Jeweled collars / Micropleats / Embroidery / Beading
Accessories + Footwear: Wayfarer-inspired sunglasses / Fringed ethnic necklaces / Boxy chain-strap bags / Dyed fur stoles / Platform ankle boots / Platform sandals
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