Matthew Williamson
By Joanna Manganaro

PARED-DOWN BOHEMIAN London: Matthew Williamson is known for his luxe bohemian aesthetic, but his fall collection had a cleaner, more pared down feel. Instead …

Feb 17, 2013
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Matthew Williamson F/W 2013
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Matthew Williamson F/W 2013

PARED-DOWN BOHEMIAN
London: Matthew Williamson is known for his luxe bohemian aesthetic, but his fall collection had a cleaner, more pared down feel. Instead of the typical riot of prints, in many cases Williamson allowed the colors to convey his signature upbeat sensibility. Citrus-y yellow tones appeared in abundance, from the opening number, a collarless coat with chevron inserts, to a killer wrapped pencil skirt. Later, magentas and sapphire blues added richness. Williamson couldn’t resist his beloved prints for long, however, and he soon introduced a romantic floral, which was later mixed with folkloric geometric patterns. Boxy woven separates featuring horizontal stripes recalled South American traditional garments. Toward the end of the show, Williamson let out an ikat or two. Though not exactly a departure, the addition of the cleaner, simpler pieces to the designer’s bohemian repertoire was an appealing move and may attract new clients to the label. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Boxy / Slim / Easy A-line / Long layers / Columnar

Color: Citrus / Magenta / Light green / Black / White / Pale blue / Taupe / Dusty blue / Navy / Sage / Poppy / Silver / Orange / Sapphire

Key Items: Citrus collarless coat / Wrap skirts / Printed tunics

Materials: Matte suitings / Felted wool / Fine-gauge yarns / Blanket-woven wool / Chiffon / Filmy silks / Burnout velvet / Fur

Print + Pattern: Chevrons / Vintage florals / Gradated stripes / Folkloric geometrics / Ikats / Landscapes

Details + Trim: Silk fringe / Sequins / Jeweled collars / Micropleats / Embroidery / Beading

Accessories + Footwear: Wayfarer-inspired sunglasses / Fringed ethnic necklaces / Boxy chain-strap bags / Dyed fur stoles / Platform ankle boots / Platform sandals

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


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