Jan 19, 2017 | By Jian DeLeon
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SYNTHETIC VS. NATURAL
New York: Nature is common theme in Matthew Williamson’s collections, and it predictably appeared in his Pre-Fall offering. What set this presentation apart were eye-popping colors and a sophisticated sense of restraint. “This season I wanted to contrast all the natural, earthy elements of the collection with very clean lines and intense pops of synthetic color,” Williamson stated in his press release. The combination worked. Geometric patterns were a nod to Scandinavian textiles, while icy landscapes referenced the region’s natural beauty. Though embellishments were not absent, they were used more sparingly this time around. Instead, the designer focused on silhouette. The trumpet shape made a statement; godet inserts created the silhouette for skirts and dresses. Even the standout gowns were mostly free of adornments, allowing elegant prints or fabric manipulations to be the focus. Cocktail looks, however, were classic Williamson, dripping with glitzy sequins and luxe ostrich feathers.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Trumpet / Hourglass / A-line / Long + languid / Dropped waist
Color: Vermillion / Fuchsia / Amethyst / Acid lime / Grass green / Plum / Dusty tea rose / Teal / Ice blue / Grey marl
Key Items: Trumpet skirts / Geometric print sheath / Blanket coat / Printed gowns / Hip-slung trousers
Materials: Blanket wools / Marled yarns / Slinky jersey / Matte wool suitings / Fluid silks / Fur / Lacquered lace
Print + Pattern: Scandinavian geometrics / Icy landscapes / Deco jewels
Details + Trim: Godet inserts / Fluted hems / Knotting / Cord piping / Blanket stitching / Beading / Mirrored paillettes / Sequins / Gathering / Ostrich feathers / Jeweled necklines / Metal hardware / Swarovski crystals
Accessories + Footwear: Jeweled bib necklaces / Fur scarves / Printed scarves / Skinny belts / Jeweled belts / Embellished evening clutch / Pointy-toe pumps with bows / Suede ankle boots
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