Matthew Williamson

London: Matthew Williamson values fun above all else, producing party-friendly clothes in bright colors, short lengths and reflective fabrics that never veer into vulgar territory. But this season, for his 15th anniversary, the designer came up with a surprisingly intellectual and sophisticated collection featuring sleek pant suits, layered tops and oversized coats. Many of the ensembles centered on slim turtlenecks tucked beneath sheer t-shirts for an effect both sporty and demure. Flash wasn’t entirely abandoned, of course, but Williamson’s burnished gold brocade gave a classic and traditional appearance to pencil skirts and knife-pleat trousers, while sequined embroidery was arranged into graphic, modern patterns. Even dresses were seemingly less important than usual, and it was interesting to see the designer covering up his dramatic floor-length gowns with boxy tops. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Fitted / Long / Lean / Hourglass / Boxy

Color: Gold / Navy / Turquoise / Ice blue / Dove grey / Gold / Mustard / Tangerine / Plum / Crimson

Key Items: Leather trousers / Striped fur coat / Delicate t-shirt dresses / Cutout pencil skirts / Cape coats / Silk button-downs / Slim turtlenecks / Sharp blazers / Sheer t-shirts / Sequined sheath dresses

Materials: Fur / Organza / Jacquard / Brocade / Leather / Silk / Chiffon / Lace / Cashmere / Wool

Print + Pattern: Stripes / Abstract geometrics / Ikat / Florals

Details + Trim: Sequins / Cutouts / Patch pockets / Contrast collars

Accessories + Footwear: Ankle boots / Fur collars / Leather tote bags / Crystal choker necklaces / Folded clutches / Peep-toe heels / Cuff bracelets


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