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Matthew Williamson

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NEO FOLK

London: Matthew Williamson cited artist Francisco Infante-Arana’s photographs of mirrored sculptures in nature settings as the inspiration behind his F/W 11 designs. Though kaleidoscopic prints and patterns that came by means of piecing, printing, and embellishment clearly stemmed from Infante-Arana’s imagery, most of the design elements this season were quintessentially Williamson. Folk motifs, fur trims and a technicolor palette are some of the designer’s signatures, but this time the looks felt especially current. Quilting and patchwork paralleled that of several other labels’ offerings for F/W 11, as did techno-crafty motifs with chevrons, zigzags and diamonds. After a few missteps last spring, Williamson seems to have regained his stride.

Color: Strawberry / Royal purple / Black / Chocolate / Fuchsia / Camel / Varying shades of gray / Dusty lavender / Mint / Coral / Electric violet / Powder blue / Chartreuse / Optic white / Ballet pink

Key Items: Wrap mini skirt / Silk button-front / Leather motorcycle pant / Pintucked silk button-front / Mini sheath / Blanket coat / Motorcycle jacket / Pleated, tapered trouser / Fur vest / Feather-fringed skirt / Cropped blazer / Drop-waist shift / Silk maxi caftan / Mongolian lamb chubby

Materials: Fur / Chiffon / Leather / Silk brocades in leopard and reptile patterns / Blanket wools / Cabled sweater knits / Lamé / Alligator

Print + Pattern: Geometric quilt motif / Fair Isles / Folk-y floral designs / Chevrons / Kaleidoscopic check, diamond and zigzag patterns / Ikat floral and collage prints / Ombré effects

Details + Trim: Quilting / Fur trims / Pintucks / Exposed zippers / Pieced constructions / Piping / Beading / Feather fringe / Sequin embellishment / Patchwork

Accessories + Footwear: Boots with buckle details and wooden platforms / Scrunched ankle socks / Fur scarves / Peep-toed pumps

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