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Matthew Williamson

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RESORT CRAFT

London:  Matthew Williamson’s sunny, energetic style has been stuck in a party girl context for some time, existing at the edges of high fashion, while enjoying success via collaborations with chains like H&M. S/S 11 brings Williamson out of this box a bit, as he incorporated some safari details as well as a heavy dose of fringe into his bright separates. The palette notably veered toward natural army greens or tans, which appear even more muted next to pops of vivid yellow or sky blue. Braided and twisted bustier halters were an artful touch suggesting African woven crafts, but enhanced with an ombré dye or paired with relaxed-fit cargo pants. A few trademark Williamson pieces still appeared, such as diaphanous, abstract-printed floor-length gowns, or structured minidresses, but they seemed muted in the context of this pleasingly diverse collection.

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