Matthew Miller reworks contemporary tailoring


London: Conform, Control, Constrict were the three words used to describe the S/S 16 theme at Matthew Miller. His frustrations with red tape and the systems that enforce this restraint resulted in a collection focused around the uniform of those constraints – the banker coat, suits – single and double breasted styles, white shirts, the tailored drainpipe trouser and ties from a collaboration with Marwood London. His message about the rigidity of contemporary life also ran through his fabric choices, which were a series of clashing textures. A cotton/metal blend disrupted the smart uniform by a progression of twisted and contorted tailoring that looked brittle but flowed elegantly around the body joined by the use of distressed and creased linens, which further contorted his tailoring. Adding more texture, long t-shirts in raw edged, frayed denim were slashed at the hem to add movement and ease. A red spray-can line adorned the backs of shirts and suit jackets, giving the only colour highlight to a business like, neutral palette. – Tom Crisp

Theme: Constricted Tailoring

Key Items: Single breasted jackets, Cropped bowling shirts, Macs, Tunic t-shirts, Drainpipe tailored trousers, Drop-crotch tailored trousers

Colour: Black, Navy, White, Stone, Blush, Red

Materials and Trim: Linen, Cotton and Metal blends, Super 100 suiting, Denim,

Print and Pattern: Creased and crumpled metal finish  

Accessories and Footwear: Laced Derby with serrated soles

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