Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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TWILIGHT IN THE CITY
London: Print-centric designer Mary Katrantzou presented her moodiest collection yet this season. Mostly black-and-white, the prints depicted a misty city at twilight with shadowy figures wandering along the waterfront, passing train tracks, street lamps, and iron bridges. The film noir mysteriousness was intoxicating. In addition to prints, Katrantzou also included a range of custom jacquards that represented nature scenes, their lustrous silk threads adding dimension and subtle shine. Also new were stamped leathers and intarsia knits. Never one to rely solely on motifs, the designer sculpted her garments into striking shapes. Ovular silhouettes and rounded shoulders appeared, as did Asian-inspired origami folding and kimono sleeves. With a one-two punch of directional silhouettes and profound patterns, this collection is arguably Katrantzou’s most compelling to date. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Ovular / Triangular / Asymmetrical / Rounded shoulders / Long and lean / Tent
Color: Black / White / Charcoal / Indigo / Cobalt / Lavender / Mint / Silver / Faded red / Chartreuse
Key Items: Printed dresses / Cropped wide-leg pants / Kimono sleeve tops
Materials: Sturdy silks / Duchesse satin / Mohair yarns / Lustrous jacquards / Stamped leather / Fine-gauge wool yarns
Print + Pattern: Film noir-inspired city scenes / Nature motifs / Bridge trusses
Details + Trim: Origami folding / Kimono sleeves / Rounded shoulders / Pressed creases / Asymmetrical slits / High-low hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Strappy pumps / Faux Mary Jane ankle boots / Mary Janes / Ankle boots / Booties
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