Mary Katrantzou

London: Mary Katrantzou moved her trademark photo-printed show-stoppers forward for Fall by giving silhouettes more structure and blurring transitions between motifs for a less collaged look than shown for S/S 12. Themes felt even more eclectic than usual this season, with motifs ranging from rows of silverware or pencils to clocks and guitars. While most prints depicted everyday objects, puffy leg-of-mutton sleeves, full skirts and high necklines felt traditionally fancy. —Whitney Kessler

Silhouette: Trapeze / Strong-shouldered / Columnar / Straight / Fit-and-flare

Color: Marigold / Lavender / Fuchsia / Pale pink / Peach / Cherry / Violet / Cobalt / Moss / Neon yellow and green / Clean black and white

Key Items: Peplumed column gown / Trapeze dress / Gutsy sweater / Silk trouser / Sweater dress / Structured hourglass frock

Materials: Chiffon / Satin / Wool

Print + Pattern: Chevrons and diamonds / Wiry plaids / Gingham checks / Baroque wallpaper motifs / Surreal photo prints featuring spoons, pencils, bubbles, gemstones, tassels, clocks, stereos, typewriters, guitars and hangers

Details + Trim: Leg-of-mutton, dolman and cap-sleeves / Peplums / Cape and capelet attachments / Mock turtlenecks and stand collars / Ruffles / Bead and cellophane embellishments / Princess seams / Raglan sleeves / High-low hems

Accessories + Footwear: Pony hair belts / Whimsical lace-up boots and booties


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