Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: “Sparseness as elegance” was how Consuelo Castiglioni described her spring collection for Marni. She stripped away most of her signature geometric prints and, instead, let the spare shapes and soft volumes speak for themselves. The prints, of course, were not completely absent. The show opened with a series of visually arresting checks, and large-scale flowers and sliced dots inspired by Bauhaus artist Anni Albers came later. But the real focus was on shape and proportion. Shoulders were dropped, skirts were decidedly A-line, and flounces sprouted intermittently, adding volume to hips. Castiglioni has been developing these shapes for years, and they still feel contemporary and appealing, but, without those spectacular prints, they lost a bit of their power. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Boxy / Layered
Color: Navy / White / Deep red / Emerald / Pastel pink / Mint / Pumpkin / White / Black
Key Items: A-line skirts / Boxy tops / Jacquard peplum dress / Red leather coat / Shirt-jackets
Materials: Cotton canvas / Tape jacquard / Bonded leather / Pile / Double-faced suitings with a sheen / Organza
Print + Pattern: Checks / Large-scale flowers / Bauhaus-inspired sliced dots
Details + Trim: Self-belts / Dropped shoulders / Deep V-necks / Flounces / Peplums
Accessories + Footwear: Plastic-frame sunglasses / Wooden brooches / Chunky cuffs / Ladylike frame bags / Boxy top-handle bags / Ankle-strap sandals / Platform sandals / Ankle-strap pumps
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