May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: Consuelo Castiglioni put away much of the heavy embellishment and patterns typical of her work for Marni this Fall, turning to strong solids, color-blocking and a graphic silhouette. In Castiglioni’s hands, this choice constituted a virtual clean slate, resulting in mod, boxy tops and outerwear balanced by cropped trousers and slim skirts. Outerwear was particularly innovative; bright fur boleros merged with wool overcoats, draped over the shoulders and belted at the waist. Self-belts gave shape to many pieces, balancing round silhouettes and volume at the neck. Of course, pattern wasn’t entirely absent; oversize tweed and checks gave visual impact to squared skirt suits and simple repeat florals made matched sets modern. Castiglioni did indulge in beading for evening, producing dimensional paillette skirts and short-sleeved tunics edged with crystals, a natural and grown-up extension of Fall’s impactful, structured daywear.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: A-line / Slim / Hourglass / Boxy
Color: Poppy / Ice blue / Chocolate / Blush pink / Camel / Black / White / Navy / Heather grey / Sable / Dove grey / Lemon yellow / Burgundy / Apricot
Key Items: Long belted capes / Cropped trousers / Matched sets / Colorblocked silk blouses / Mod shift dresses / Belted overcoats / Buckled turtlenecks / Fur capelets / Molded t-shirts / Long-sleeved silk dresses / Skirt suits / Nipped-waist wool dresses / Short-sleeved a-line tunics
Materials: Fur / Satin / Silk / Brocade / Wool / Felt / Embossed leather / Patent leather / Tweed / Velvet
Print + Pattern: Florals / Colorblocking / Oversize checks / Geometric repeats
Details + Trim: Embroidered beading / Beaded velvet collars / Self-belts / Oversized patch pockets / Contrast collars / Contrast cuffs / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Rigid satchel bags / Wide belts / Round sunglasses / Portfolio cases / Opaque hosiery / Angular wrap-around sunglasses / Stappy cap-toe platform pumps / Mary-janes / Satin frame bags / Jeweled collar necklaces / Paillette bags / Peep-toe heels / Jewel brooches
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