Milan: With a brilliant mix of popping colors and dizzying prints, Consuelo Castiglioni’s spring collection for her Marni label was characteristically quirky and upbeat. The designer borrowed elements from cycling, scuba diving and surfing for the sporty garments: each model wore a leather hat that looked like a swim cap, the bike shorts of S/S 10 returned as an underlayer for tunics and skirts, and color blocking mimicked wetsuits. Unlined leather pieces, like boxy skirts and tunics and playful perforated jackets, were a highlight, adding a luxe touch and glossy surface contrast. Castiglioni brought back the geometric motifs she has been playing with over the past few seasons but also included vintage-inspired chintz and swirling 1970s-style florals. Asymmetrical peplums and double-layered flounces, as well as floral-patterned lace, added a feminine note to the active influences. The collection closed with the same color-blocked separates, this time made from disc-like paillettes – a cheeky take on the red carpet looks that typically close a Milan designer’s show. Castiglioni does not play by the rules, and her cheerful irreverence is what makes her collections so compelling each season.

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