Milan: Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni label has always had a brainy sensibility and slightly quirky personality that greatly appeal to women who share those traits. This season, Castiglioni stayed true to her aesthetic and delivered a collection that is sure to appeal to devotees, who await each runway presentation to see how Marni’s haute bohemian will evolve. Dimensional peplums were a new direction, and the flared or rounded panels were found on shorts, tops and skirts, some extending far from the hips. While perhaps not the most flattering of details, the peplums had an intelligent sense of humor, playing with the new hourglass silhouette in a no-pressure, non-body-con way. Slim knee-length shorts were the focus for bottoms, although cropped pants appeared as well, some as part of suits in punchy retro patterns. Tactile mohair sweaters with plunging V-necks and flowing tops with tear-shaped openings at the ribs were standout pieces, while boxy tees with abstract screen-prints were the most eye-catching. Despite experimental shapes and rich textures, the collection had a clean, somewhat minimalist feel, and Castiglioni’s palette – chocolate browns, shades of mustard, mint green and mauve – artfully harmonized with the bookish-chic looks.

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