Jan 19, 2017 | By Jian DeLeon
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Milan: After several print-heavy seasons, Consuelo Castiglioni chose a more austere path for Marni, stripping away the retro repeats and sparkly paillettes in favor of moody neutrals and spectacular, tailored furs. Coats, as always, were highly covetable and formed the centerpiece of the F/W 13 collection, from darkly swirled astrakhan with wide, heavy swaths of mink at the hem to round sleeved nylon flight jackets in military olive. Felt motorcycle jackets came elongated to dress length and belted, while double breasted menswear styles looked airy crafted from a fluffy mohair stripe. Castiglioni’s most notable separates had a serious business vibe, including charcoal faux-bustier tops over trousers, a coldness extended into a handful of prints, such as floral repeats that seemed machine-drawn and stark, lonely landscapes painted onto satin. Reflective and melancholy, the presentation made a potent emotional impact from start to finish.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Body skimming / Rectangular / Rounded shoulders / Dropped waist / A-line
Color: Chartreuse / White / Black / Crimson / Charcoal / Oxblood / Olive / White / Navy / Jersey gray / Soft pumpkin / Deep sage / Caramel / Light mint / Lemon
Key Items: Knit tops with faux-bustiers / Sheath dresses / Strapless tops with subtle dropped peplums / Fur bolero minicapes / Puffy round anoraks & modern flight jackets / Long sleeveless coats / Below-the-knee kilts with faux-pleats / Boxy matched skirt sets / Double breasted menswear overcoats / Printed a-line dresses & skirts / Full menswear trousers
Materials: Felted wool / Mink / Astrakhan fur / Nylon / Tweed / Sheer mesh / Spongy leathers / Mohair / Printed silk / Satin / Calfskin
Print + Pattern: Tweed checks / Line-drawn fractal florals / Stripes / Forest illustrations / Abstract grids
Details + Trim: Faux-bustiers / Chunky fur hems / Fur linings / Hoods / Three quarter sleeves / Zippers / Tab closures / Carwash slits / Dropped waists / Patch pockets / Satin trim / Subtle peplums / Fur collars
Accessories + Footwear: Long voluminous fur scarves / Sturdy equestrian-style boots / Molded leather backpacks / Ribbed knit and fur gloves / Short two-tone gloves / Cozy fur boots / Sleek wide leather belts / Oversized oval sunglasses / Heavy leather pumps / Flat Birkenstock-style sandals / Big tote bags / Elongated frame bags / Flat slippers, some with metallic cap toes / Jeweled evening clutches
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