May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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SHE WEARS THE PANTS
New York: Consuelo Castiglioni shifted her focus to tailoring and outerwear for Pre-Fall. Her label, Marni, is typically known charmingly quirky and feminine pieces, but this time around, Castiglioni explored a tomboyish theme. The first section of the collection featured several versions of a straight-leg, pressed-crease pant, some with tab waistbands, others without. There was also a range of sporty coats, from quilted puffers to nylon anoraks to military-inspired styles. Like her S/S 13 show, this offering contained relatively few of the whimsical prints for which the designer is known. However, the looks entered more familiar territory as the collection drew to a close. Wide stripes and an oversized floral print appeared, as did signature A-line skirts. Castiglioni added a glamorous touch with fur coats and stoles. But she maintained the borrowed-from-the-boys elements, styling even the more feminine looks with flat loafers, combat boots, and printed high-top sneakers. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long and lean / Slouchy / Layered / A-line
Color: Melon / Bottle green / Lavender / Periwinkle / Black / Olive / Carnation / Raisin / Chartreuse / Goldenrod / Forest green / White / Charcoal / Navy / Burgundy / Gold / Bronze
Key Items: Tailored trousers / Pantsuits / Pleated skirts / Gold foil and shearling coats / Anoraks
Materials: Spongy suitings / Matte silks / Nylon / Felted wool / Shearling / Metallic foil / Bonded leather / Shearling / Twill / Mink / Fox fur
Print + Pattern: Wide stripes / Oversized florals / Large-scale geometric shapes
Details + Trim: Fortuny pleats / Box pleats / Double-breasted closures / Flap pockets / Drawstrings / Hoods / Tab waistbands / Pressed creases / Quilting
Accessories + Footwear: Geometric-shaped earrings / Cat-eye sunglasses / Fur stoles / Necklaces with large pendants / Leather and fur gloves / Vintage-inspired frame bags / Oversized totes / Envelope clutches / Knee socks / Kiltie loafers / Flat loafers / Combat boots / Printed high-top sneakers
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