Apr 25, 2017 | By Sandy Chu
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London: Super Marios is what they’re calling Marios Schwab on Instagram after his stellar F/W 13 showing. The collection opened with three sinuous cape looks, which provided a dramatic frame for the leg-baring mini tunics underneath. Then came the pencil skits in wool crepe and thick, high-shine patent leather, split down the middle to reveal panels of lacework and heavy embroidered scrolls on silk. Clear plastic coat dresses with lace appliqué, tied with velvet sashes—also open to reveal the thighs—gave way to taut little shift dresses, some with intricate embroideries that looked like Japanese calligraphy, others with patent leather inserts. If you were sitting close enough you could see the tiny slits at the elbows and the dress pins that held the velvet ties straight, such was the immense attention to detail. The rest of the show was a swoon-worthy mix of these elements ending on regal, almost mediaeval cape dresses and long velvet and sheer paillette-strewn gowns. After last season’s light and flirty collection, Schwab showed an equally deft hand with rich, high-drama opulence, further establishing himself as a designer with serious luxury house chops. If one of those closing gowns doesn’t end up on the Oscar red carpet next month, we’d be surprised. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Tunic / Cape dressing / Leggy / Sinuous
Color: Nude / Carmine / Cocoa / Burgundy / Mauve / Black / Anthracite / Celadon green / Red earth / Egyptian blue / Cranberry / Port / Cream / Bone / Petrol blue
Key Items: The Cape / Mini tunic dresses / Lace embroidered PVC coat dresses / Cape sleeve and cape-back dresses / Thigh-split skirts / Tunic tops / Embossed silk crepe wrap coats and cropped jackets with Astrakhan collars and trim / Funnel neck cashmere sweaters / Godess gowns
Materials: Wool jersey / Lace / Cashmere / Silk / Embossed silk crepe / Patent leather / velvet / Chiffon / Suede / Satin / PVC
Print + Pattern: Micro triangle print
Details + Trim: Heavy embroidery / Cape sleeves / Elbow slits / Contrast panels / Funnel necks / Astrakhan trim / Floral open embroidery / Latticework / High necks with exposed décolletage / Velvet piping / Paillettes / Dress pin and brooch closures
Accessories + Footwear: Velvet ankle boots / Wide-brim felt fedoras / Flat snakeskin and leather pumps with attached gladiator calf guards / Chokers
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