May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Marios Schwab is known for channeling unusual artistic influences into his collections and for S/S 13 he took an anthropological turn by looking to the warrior cultures of the ancient Amazon as well as illustrations of German biologist and artist Ernst Haeckel. The designer filtered both the aggressive costuming of primitive tribes and Haeckel’s articulated drawings into heavily fringed dresses and honeycomb silk skirts. Geometric hive structures ran throughout, popping up as a graphic pattern on short sleeve knitwear, as did dimensional pleating that hugged the body and accentuated the slim silhouette. Fitted bodices crafted from honeycomb beading, sheer column gowns and Swarovski crystal chain embellishments were Schwab’s nod to evening—a dramatic close to this avant-garde presentation.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fit & flare / Slim / Long & lean
Color: Raspberry / Black / Cobalt / White / Cherry red / Nude / Lavender
Key Items: Fringed cocktail dresses / Lace-front sheaths / Graphic short sleeved knits / Sharply pleated skirts / Embellished net column gowns
Materials: Organza / Pleated leather / Raffia / Honeycomb silk / Intarsia knits / Spiderweb netting / Coated linen / Mesh
Print + Pattern: Tribal tattoo prints / Honeycombs
Details + Trim: Raffia fringe / Pleating / Swarovski crystal chains / Beading / Sheer sleeves / Embroidery / Bib fronts / Lacing / Cap sleeves / Fringed peplums / Metallic tinsel
Accessories + Footwear: Laced flat sandals / Corset belts / Stone earrings
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