Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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London: Marios Schwab’s noir inspiration for F/W 12 was clearly evident on the runway, his mysterious muse hidden beneath wide-brimmed hats and asymmetric cloches. The obstruction of her face put all emphasis on her clothes; neatly tailored hourglass dresses and slim skirt suits updated with modern, graphic embroidery. Schwab’s geometric repeat design and slick floral netting added precision to fitted cocktail dresses, with their sheer panels layered over tan silk for a faux-nude effect. The exploration of texture also resulted in Persian lamb coats with a dimensional sheen, skirts with sequined net overlay and jackets with puffy quilted sleeves. Although many of the silhouettes put the emphasis on the waist, Schwab didn’t ignore the neckline, choosing both swirling art-deco cutouts for simple knits and embroidered crystal collars for evening gowns.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Hourglass / Slim / Boxy / Long
Color: White / Black / Plum / Nude / Emerald / Mint / Chocolate / Silver
Key Items: Hourglass sheath dresses / Cutout knit tops / Layered pencil skirts / Fur coats / Cropped jackets / Embellished turtlenecks / Sheer sequin dresses / Chiffon evening gowns / Skirt suits / Satin pantsuits
Materials: Wool / Cashmere / Chiffon / Silk / Leather / Fur / Lace / Satin
Print + Pattern: Abstract swirls / Florals
Details + Trim: Notch bodices / Slits / Slim self-belts / Sequins / Embroidery / Contrast collars / Quilting / Crystal embroidery
Accessories + Footwear: Leather gloves / Wide brimmed hats / T-strap heels / Asymmetric cloche hats
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